Copyright: © 1998 - 2008 John Gardner
| A Walking Guide to the Massif de la Chartreuse |
An Overview of the Walking
Chartreuse offers magnificent walking. It is not the exhilarating walking of the Chamonix glaciers, nor the long, lonely multi-day treks offered by the Pyrenean hills, but nevertheless, in its own way, it is as fine as both.
The area is best suited for day walks, rather than for back-packing. This is largely because the dominant topography is one of long, but narrow limestone ridges, which does not lend itself to circular tours. Moreover, being limestone, there is no water in the hills, and the valleys are too populated for wild camping. Having said that, there is the circular Tour de Chartreuse which, although taking advantage of the few mountain huts available, does tend to finish each section in a community.
Typically, a walk will start in the forest, often to the accompaniment of a stream which will be found later emerging from a spring or cave. The forests are very beautiful, and fairly damp and cool, but with little visibility. Getting through the forest can be a long process, as one climbs 600 metres or so, but the paths are usually well made and easy going. The transition from forest to meadow is foreshadowed by tall pines being replaced by smaller spruce and dwarf birch, but nevertheless, tends to be abrupt. The emergence into the sunshine of the alpine meadows, often with the heat being reflected off the limestone cliffs above, is always welcomed. In the spring and early summer, up to mid-August, it is the flora which overwhelms.
Above the 200 metres of so of meadow, are the cliffs protecting the plateaux above. These tend to be dramatic, rising vertically for up to 350 metres, and at first sight, seem to be insurmountable. If there are any exposed or scrambly sections, they are likely to be in this section. Some of the routes through the cliffs are positively exciting. Above the cliffs, are the plateau areas. Although there are positive mountain summits in the area, such as Chamechaude and Dent de Crolles, these are the exception rather than the rule. Generally, one surmounts the cliffs to find high-altitude, long synclinal valleys. But there is no feeling of anticlimax, for these valleys are exquisite. The sides are dominated by large expanses of steep limestone pavement, and the floors are covered with a mixture of dwarf woodland, and meadows. They are a delight to wander through. It is normally possibly to descend via an alternative route back to the starting point.
Many walks in Chartreuse include a section of sangle. The cliffs in Chartreuse are often separated by steep grass terraces, and the sangle paths follow these terraces, sometimes because they are the only feasible way up, and sometimes just for the hell of it. These paths typically follow a thin line beneath upper cliffs, and have a steep grassy slope falling away towards lower cliffs, and they can be very exposed. Whilst they can be traversed with safety by those who have a reasonable head for heights. it would be very difficult to protect those who are unhappy with exposed situations. The grades given to routes in this guide do take into account the exposure factor.
Over the past few years, the PNRC seem to have been undertaking a program of footpath repair, and signposting. Both are very positive steps, but it does mean that new signposts may appear, and old ones removed since a walk was described. The fixed aids on some of the steeper and more exposed sections of the popular paths are also being replaced and enhanced. This can make a walk easier than indicated.
One word of warning. The forestry industry is much more mechanised than it used to be, and forestry tracks are now rather brutally created in the lower woods. These sometimes obscure the traditional paths, and the routes described here may require interpretation if the machines have been there since the author. It is unfortunate that the PNRC aren't influencing the forestry activities a little more - especially as tourism is probably worth a lot more to the local economy than the forestry.
Finally, just for fun, here is a list of my favourite walks in each of the major areas (in some sort of order):
- l'Aup Seuil - The Roman Inscription via the Pas de Mort
- Chamechaude - The Summit via the Jardin
- l'Alpe - via the Fouda Blanc sangle
- Grande Sure - The Summit via the West Chimney
- Dent de Crolles - The Summit via the Guiers Mort
- Mont Granier - from Bellecombe via the Pas de l'Alpette
- Grand Som - from la Correrie
I don't expect anybody else to agree with me!
The Grading and Timings
Two gradings are used to classify the walks: the first is used as an indicator of the difficulty, and the second of the quality. Both gradings are inevitably subjective, as one person's exposure may be another person's view, and one person's scramble may be another person's rock climb, but it is hoped that they do have a consistency. It should be noted, however, that the author cannot take responsibility for other people's decision making in the hills. This web site is intended to serve as guidance for the wise, not for obedience by fools.
The difficulty is graded 1, 2, or 3. Grade 1 indicates general mountain terrain, the type that you will find on any typical British hill. Grade 2 is used where the walk contains sections where some scrambling is required, and / or there is some exposure encountered. Striding Edge and Tryfan would probably merit such a grading. Grade 3 is used where the scrambling may be awkward, or where exposure becomes a significant factor. The Anoch Eagach in Glen Coe, or many of the non-climbing sections on the Cuillin Ridge would qualify as Grade 3. In Chartreuse, however, the more difficult sections tend to be very short. The descriptions do attempt to pinpoint the reason for a grade.
The quality is graded from one star (*) to three stars (***). Such a classification is even more subjective than the difficulty, and such is the quality of the walking in the area, it is difficult not to give top marks to everything! On the whole, one star walks have been excluded.
The timings are not intended to be super accurate, and have been rounded up or down as the whim dictates. They assume steady walking, with the occasional break to rest the legs, take a photograph, or identify a flower. They do not include meal breaks, serious photography sessions, and so on. Providing you set off at a reasonably early hour, all walks described can be completed in time to enjoy a late afternoon beer at your favourite café.