Copyright: © 1998 - 2008 John Gardner
| A Walking Guide to the Massif de la Chartreuse |
l'Alpe through the Ceiling
| Starting point: les Varvat | Difficulty: 3 | Ascent: 825 m | Time: 6 hrs | Quality: *** |
A difficult walk to name, as the route outlined simply takes you to the crest. Once there, one can wander about in almost any direction, and have a good time. The height and the time assume that once at the crest, you will wish to visit the Sommet du Pinet at the north end of the crest.
L'Alpe is worth a visit by any route, but this route has certain interesting elements that are reminiscent of "The Lion, The Witch, and The Wardrobe". There are many possible variations of the route through the forest - the one provided makes no claims to being better than any other, but it does seem to work.
The starting point is les Varvat - a small group of houses elevated 250 metres above St. Même, with the advantage of a small parking area (if you get there earlier enough). There are splendid views across the cirque towards the Guiers Vif resurgence waterfalls.
From the car park follow the track trending south east for about 300 metres. When it reaches a positive summit, a thin track heads off uphill to the right. This starts off horribly steep, but the angle soon eases. It divides at one point, and the right hand variation is marginally better. After about half an hour, the path intersects a contouring forestry track. Ignore it and carry on, taking the right hand option after a few minutes. This should then be followed to a positive ridge. By this time, you will have picked up the occasional blue blobs and red arrows. The path loses its identity on the ridge, but find your way up it until a clearing, rampant with man-eating Giant Yellow Gentians, is reached. From here, there is a fine view of the l'Aulp du Seuil basin above the Guiers Vif cirque.
The next part of the route is a bit of a mystery, as we have never found the right bit of path, but the following works after a fashion. Go to the top of the clearing into the woods, and ascend this until you are 20 metres higher than the clearing. When you can, traverse to the left (north) until you leave the wood for some scree. Keep your eyes open for a path coming up from below, but don't panic if you don't find it. Keep on traversing until there is a distinct gully above you, with a rocky amphitheatre seemingly half way up. This is the gully you need to ascend.
There is no path up to the amphitheatre - make your way as best you can. This is reached after about an hour and a half, and it may be climbed on the right, where marked. This is a slightly awkward scramble of some three or four metres (Difficulty 3), which is not recommended for descent. A rope may be useful for those inexperienced on rock.
From here, a distinct path wanders easily up the shallow gully, taking one or two rocky steps on the way, to a small cave entrance. Enter the cave, and climb the iron ladder which leads through a small hole in the ceiling. From here, a short shelf takes you back to a narrow traverse above the cave entrance (slight exposure). This is very short. Figures may be seen on the traverse in the photograph.
Continue ascending up the gully to a crack. This is an awkward, but not exposed, scramble. It is a lot easier if rucksacks are taken off first, and passed on up.
The scramble takes you onto a beautiful terrace path, which you follow for a few minutes, the rocks above being the final obstacle to the crest. The path eventually plunges into the cliff by means of a rock corridor. This is followed around a couple of right angles to reach the summit crest.
Descents
Reversing the ascent is not recommended. To return to the car, it is preferable to descend via the Vallon de Pratcel, reached from the Pas de l'Echelle which is well way marked. This path may be found by taking a line to the south-east towards the refuge. You will soon pick up a path which is going in the right direction. The GR9A, with its red and white way markings will be encountered on the far side of the valley floor. Turn right, and follow it across an area of limestone pavement to the Pas de l'Echelle. This descends into the Vallon de Pratcel. Turn right at the bottom, following the valley down to the GR9, and hence back to les Varvat reached within a couple of hours of leaving the crest.